To add your worms, dig 3–4 holes in each raised bed, divide the worms roughly, drop in the Garden Worms first, then Composting Worms, and cover with soil. Water lightly if conditions are dry.
Finish by adding a mulch layer (homemade compost is ideal). The composting worms will live and feed in the top few inches; the garden worms will create deep burrows. Together they:

• Recycle organic matter into stable humus and casts.
• Aerate & drain the soil via vertical and lateral tunnels.
• Distribute nutrients through the profile, improving root access.

Keep soil moist but not soggy (think wrung-out sponge) and avoid synthetic fertilisers or soil drenches that harm biology. If you’re starting a brand-new bed, consider adding Bokashi-treated food waste (in small pockets) to feed the initial community — worms will follow the food and microbes.

Wiggly Tip: When possible introduce worms when soil is 10–25 °C. In summer, mulch immediately to keep them cool; in winter, wait for mild spells and again mulch well.

At Lower Blakemere Farm, Herefordshire, we garden and farm with worms on purpose: compost heaps, Bokashi bays, manure systems and mulched field margins all rely on worm-driven soil building. That’s the same circularity we want for your raised beds — scraps → compost → soil → food.

Your kit is hand-packed on the farm and shipped in breathable packaging with moist bedding to keep worms comfortable. Please set them up within 24 hours of arrival. All live orders are covered by our Full Live-Arrival Guarantee — if anything’s not right, we’ll make it right (no faff).

Goes well with:

• InGround Worm Farm
• Bokashi Kit (make living compost to feed the bed biology)

Nutrient cycling: Worm casts concentrate nutrients; nitrogen in casts is readily plant-available and casts can release multiple times more phosphorus than surrounding soil. Worm bodies decompose rapidly, further enriching nitrogen pools.
Hydrology: Soils with active worm populations drain up to ~10× faster than comparable soils without — those burrows are natural soakaways and airways. In zero-till systems with high worm numbers, infiltration can be many times greater than in cultivated soils.
Structure: Casts help rebuild topsoil aggregates, holding moisture without slumping — brilliant for roots and microbes.
Biology: Composting worms (reds & dendras) are epigeic surface-feeders (think forest floor/manure heaps), while garden worms (L. terrestris) are anecic burrowers — the partnership covers all layers.

Wiggly translation? More worm = better soil. They don’t need batteries, lunch breaks, or a HR policy — just moisture, mulch and a bit of manners.

Keep them happy:

• Maintain mulch on the surface (compost/leaf mould/straw).
• Keep beds moist (not waterlogged).
• Avoid synthetic fertilisers and harsh pesticides.
• Aim for living roots most of the year (catch crops/green manures between plantings).

FAQs
Do I need to dig them in?
No heavy digging. Just make 3–4 holes per bed, add Garden Worms then Composting Worms, cover, and mulch.
Will they stay in the bed?
They’ll move where conditions suit (moisture + food). Good mulch keeps them close.
Can I add more compost later?
Yes please — biology needs feeding. Add compost/mulch little and often.
Are Garden Worms safe to add?
Yes — they’re our native (Lumbricus terrestris) supplied under plant health certification via a sterile carrier system.
Do you breed them on the farm?
No — we source responsibly (see provenance note above) and pack fresh on our farm.

Wiggly Tips

• Keep cover on the soil — bare soil is a worm’s worst enemy.
• Top up composting worms in spring for a flying start.
• If beds dry out, soak, then re-mulch.
• Feed the soil food web, not just the plants.